Most people dream about the day they will be able to retire from their full-time job. The thought of being able to escape the daily grind is a dream that many of us share. However, before you take the plunge, there are some things, financial and otherwise, that you should consider.

Your health. Just because you retire from a full-time job doesn't mean that you necessarily need to retire from an active life. There are many studies that have found that staying active, whether it be with a part-time job or some type of volunteer activity, is crucial to keeping your mind and body in good physical and mental condition.


Your marriage. Even though couples promise to stay together "for better or for worse", that doesn't mean that you want to spend 24 hours per day together. There should be some planning and negotiation that need to take place before either husband or wife decides to retire.

Taxes. Retirees can begin taking penalty-free withdrawals from their 401(k) accounts at age 55 and IRA withdrawals at age 59 1/2. However, these withdrawals are still going to be subject to income tax. By delaying the withdrawal of funds from these accounts, they can continue to grow at a compound rate for more years, thus giving you a bigger retirement account on which to live.

Social Security. You may begin receiving Social Security checks at age 62 1/2, but you will pay a penalty in that you future checks will be reduced by 25 to 35 percent. If you delay signing up for Social Security to the age of between 62 and 70, your benefit will increase by up to 7 to 8 percent per year.

Health benefits. Those who retire before age 65, the age at which you qualify for Medicare, must worry how to pay for expensive health insurance premiums until they do qualify for Medicare. The costs for health insurance will be extremely expensive, even if you belong to a company-sponsored plan as you will probably be required to pick up the company's portion of that health premium in retirement.

There are many other reasons why you should consider whether or not to retire in the near future. We will explore some of those issues in a future article.

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When should you use hyperfocal focusing? Well, sometimes when shooting a landscape, you want everything sharp from the front to the back of the scene. Setting a small aperture such as f/16, f/22 or even f/32 can help, but if you really want to maximize depth of field, hyperfocal focusing is the technique you need to use.

To do this, you need a camera where you can switch to manual focusing and a lens inscribed with a depth of field scale (not all modern lenses have these markings, especially zoom lenses). If you're not familiar with these kinds of lens markings, here's a quick explanation:

Lens Markings Primer

A typical lens shows four sets of markings. At top (looking from behind the camera) is the distance scale (on the lens' focus barrel) showing figures in feet and meters (this also shows the infinity position).

Below that are a set of lines beneath which the f-stops of the lens are marked. This is the depth of field scale. For each f-stop, there are two equidistant marks, one to the left and one to the right of the central mark on the scale.

The last set of figures shows the selected f-stop for the lens. These are on the lens aperture ring and, as you change the aperture, the selected f-stop under the central line on the depth of field scale will tell you what aperture you've selected.

To find out what part of a scene is in focus is simply a matter of reading the distance scale for the two marks for your selected f-stop on the depth of field scale. For example, let's say you've focused on something that's 3 feet away. If your lens is set at f/2.8, then reading the distance values at the two "2.8" marks on the lens shows that everything just shy of 3 feet to about 3.5 feet will be in focus (a little guesstimation is required in reading the distances). This is fine for isolating your subject from everything else.

If you close the lens down to f/11, then reading the distances for the two "11" marks shows that everything between just over 2 feet and 5 feet will be in focus.

If the lens is set to focus in infinity (the infinity mark is over the central mark on the depth of field scale), then you only need to read off the distance value for the f-stop mark to the left of the central depth of field scale as everything between it and infinity will be in focus. If you'd set your f-stop to f/5.6 on the 28mm lens, everything from just over 10 feet to infinity would be in focus. If you'd selected f/16, it would be everything from 5 feet to infinity.

Hyperfocal Focusing

Hyperfocal focusing is based on the fact that depth of field typically extends 2/3 behind the point focused on and 1/3 in front, but if you focus on infinity, the depth of field behind is completely wasted. You can make use of it if you refocus, putting the infinity mark (an "8" on its side) on the focusing ring against the aperture set on the depth of field scale (this is known as the hyperfocal point). If, for example, you set a 28mm lens to f/11 and focus on infinity, everything from about 9 feet (2.5m) to infinity will be sharp. Align the infinity mark against the "11" position to give hyperfocal focusing and the depth of field now extends from 4 feet (1.2m) to infinity, which is essential if you want foreground interest to be pin-sharp. If you set your lens to f/16 and rotate the focus barrel to place the infinity mark over the "16" position, then reading the scales shows that everything between just under 3 feet to infinity will be sharp.

The Hyperfocal distance is the that point above the central mark on the depth of field scale when the infinity mark has been put over the required f-stop mark on the depth of field scale. In the case of the 28mm lens at f/11, that's 9 feet / 2.5m. At f/16, the hyperfocal distance would be 5 feet. Remember that the hyperfocal distance will be different for lenses of different focal length and different f-stops.

There's a table on the webpage mentioned at the end of this article that shows the hyperfocal distance for different lens and f-stop combinations. The figures have been calculated mathematically. If your lens has a distance scale but lacks a depth of field scale, you can use this table to set your lens to the hyperfocal distance required.

Don't forget that the wider the angle of a lens, the shorter its focal length and the deeper its depth of field. So, as an example, an 18mm lens will have deeper (longer) depth of field than a 105mm. Also, the smaller the aperture you use the greater the depth of field; i.e. for a lens of any given focal length, there's more depth of field with it at f/16 than at f/4, for example.

Seeing the Difference

A subject like this benefits from a few pictures to illustrate the principles and show the results. Explanatory images showing the various lens markings and how to use them along with pictures to illustrate the results of using hyperfocal focusing can be found at: http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/hyperfocal.html

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One of the first things that should be, and mastering digital SLR photography is taught is to go out and buy a lens filter, it should be for each of your goals. Every one has the lens, or a digital SLR or film.

Buy the best way to filter is a UV filter or Sky. It is best to make your pictures? Maybe a little '. But more importantly, what he does, though protected, is the investment you made your goal. Once you scratch the surfaceMy goal - that's it. The time to buy another lens that can be very expensive. And there's nothing you can do. However, if you go a UV filter on the lens, and then scrape the filter, you buy another - most for around $ $ 10! And 'the best insurance policy for $ 10 you ever spent on your device.

Now, in addition, that other types of filters, lenses are nice accessories in your arsenal? Most photographers will agree with me that a polarizer is always nice to have.O ND neutral density filters are also a great addition that you can reach some kind of shooting in very bright light. Yet another type of filter lens that uses a lot of landscape photographers, is the conclusion of the ND filter. This fact limited the amount of light on the middle of the shot - for example, the host of heaven and earth.

There are groups of special filters, such as close-up filter or a macro (which you can zoom in closer for macro photography), and special effectsFilter. The filters macros are nice to have, depending on the image resolution of the camera, you may be able to get so close to cutting with the software package of photos. As with all filters for special effects, such as the addition of stars and rainbows, or filtering certain colors, most of these can now be implemented in your software package of images.

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500 millimeters lens mirror on the EOS 5D MkII. And would prove it. I was not expecting much, but quite in order, most of all rights for video, and only $ 160. Of course, you need a tripod most expensive lens and a steady hand for focusing. Some scenes from Bali. For those who do not have a choice, my 36 Rokinons or a Canon 500L. The material looks very good in 1080p ..



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The biggest obstacle in the sense of a photographer's digital initiatives is often the lens that was bundled with their digital SLR (Single Lens Reflex camera.)

The market is full of fantastic resolution digital SLR cameras, and propagate the tons of features, but most of the 1st time buyers do not know how complicated these cameras really are.

Without exception, the purchase of the camera kit is that it is something like a Nikon D40x or Canon Rebel XTi with 18 mm to 55 mm zoom and a 1 GB or 2 GBMemory card. It's worse if it leads to an inch with a 28-135 mm objective.

As simple as complicated, these cameras? In terms of function, and how all work the same. But as intuitive to use and are, as you change settings and so on, that a different matter altogether.

1. It is not a simple thing, as something very simple to change settings on a camera. In the analog camera film yesterday, all that was you had to know that the amountISO or film speed, aperture, shutter speed, read the meter, such as loading and unloading of the camera and, of course, if you are the trigger himself - in essence, was only 4 settings need to know all cameras to work. I focus deliberately omitted, because I expect that everyone knows how to look through the viewfinder and turn the barrel of the lens until the image appears sharp in frosted glass.

2. Hidden in these days, all these basic settings aremultiple levels of menus. To change, say something as basic as the ISO, you must hold down a button and turning one of the two quadrants. Even if you do, you can not be sure you have the correct change. For example, you might think you've changed the ISO, because you see the numbers change on the LCD 100, 125-160 and 200 Well, this could also change the shutter speed is.

If you have not read the manual, how can you be sure? More complicated it becomes,Some cameras can also choose settings, 1 / 3 stop one. Shutter on film cameras are used 1 / 1000, 1 / 500. 1 / 250, etc. Now we are among the settings as in 1 / 1250, 1 / 640, 1 / 350, etc. Not surprisingly, novices are overwhelmed.

Remember, we have not even as such, only "digital" as the selection of compression or quality or file size, white balance, formatting the memory card or auto focus sensor and how drive the engine, just to name a few.

3. I did not realizeHow confusing all these numbers are a newcomer to the center of my teaching an introductory course in digital photography. I think I tell my students to rate their risk of 1 / 125 sec at f11. One of my students looked at me and asked me if that was the focal length, which must sit or if the ISO. Maybe it was my fault as an instructor, who has left her confused, but boy, I learned something that day!

There are too many variables for digital SLR camerasout there, especially if other: 1 Time to users. And not on zoom lenses, they buy with their cameras, I also told them that the opening to the zoom lenses are variable. F3.5 is about 18 mm and 55 mm f5.6 to end!

There was a lot of wisdom in the days of film photography, when combined, a producer reflex camera with a standard lens of 50 mm. It meant, beginners can always concentrate their exposure to the law, without compromising the reason why a lens has beenaperture opening to wide angle, and another for telephoto.

Compose to close or move backward, instead of zooming in and out do not teach beginners with a variable focal length too lazy to explore their subject matter, searching.

It is recommended for all those reasons that I have only 1 time buyers also buy a 50 mm fixed focal length, with maybe a F1.8 aperture, his adventures in photography began to be found.

What is certain is that the standard lensmore expensive, but in the long run, novices will learn much faster. As a F1.8 lens 50 millimeters is extremely versatile.It allows you to shoot low light.It is small and compact and is actually a target of 80 mm if you 1.6x magnification - ideal for portraits .

The kit lens out there worse I've seen, is a series of 28 mm to 135 mm. When you factor magnification factor of 1.6x over the long term, actually a 216-mm lens.

A lens of 216 mm andA slow opening of f5.6 is extremely limited. This means that the lens can be used only in the bright outdoors. Typical exposure for a sunny day with ISO 100 is about 1 / 500 sec at f 5.6. Once the sun behind a cloud, they need to increase the ISO of the camera.

So if you're new to photography and am looking for a digital SLR camera, consider buying a normal lens, or what was formerly known as a standard lens - the 50mm. Consider also: Do you really think that the lens that came with the cameraBody can fool?

If you have the same price, without the camera lens against the whole kit (camera and zoom), you'll see that some providers to throw in a bag, a lens cleaning kit and even a tripod. Do you really think they will be able to make a profit, if the goal is not a piece of junk with bad optics?

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Oregon vs Oregon State 3 | December 2009 Autzen Stadium, Eugene, Oregon A view of § 9 in Autzen Stadium Shot with the Canon 5D Mark II, Pentax and Zacuto Z-Finder ... 'Oregon Ducks Football Autzen', "Oregon State" Beavers Ducks' Rose Bowl "Canon 5D", "Mark II"



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